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Street performers in Union Square

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Yellowstone National Park

Random Photos

Some photos from my cross country road trip two winters ago. Taken in Ouray, Colorado which is home to some world-class ice climbing.

Notes from Copacabana, Bolivia

February 8, 2011 - Copacabana, Bolivia

"There are certain moments or places in your travels where everything seems to be, well... perfect. You find that little slice of life you wish you could hold on to forever, and live over and over again.

Today I found that. It hit me while lying in the hammock, in my wildly unique hostel in the hills of Copacabana.


Maybe it was the breathtaking views from the huge windows.


Maybe it was the perfect cloud formations over Lake Titicaca.


Maybe it was the pleasure I had knowing I was so far from anything and everything I knew. Maybe it was the excitement of being in a completely foreign country with more than enough funds to stay for months(Bolivia is super cheap). Or maybe it was the pure state of relaxation and contentment I felt lying there with Camila. Either way, it was life at it's best.

This is what traveling is all about. Stumbling upon those towns or cities with great vibes that simply leave you stunned.

Copacabana is a simple town on the edge of Lake Titicaca, 15 minutes from the Peruvian/Bolivian border. It is most well known as the jump-off point for Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun), which the Incas believed to be the birthplace of mankind. The town consists of old, colorful buildings and largely sparse streets, save the main strip leading to the water and Mercado. The main strip is littered with restaurants, cafes, shops and friendly hippies selling handmade crafts for next to nothing. The town is almost entirely void of cars or anything that reminds you it is the year 2011. Items were surprisingly cheap, with a handmade bracelet costing me five Bolivianos, or about $.75. Life here is simple, slow paced and seemingly lost in time.

Our days are spent relaxing, enjoying the views, the clouds and our incomparable hostel and property. Wandering the town today we met a painter we later found out was named Samuel Smith. It wasn't until halfway through our conversation that a little English slipped out and we discovered he was from Minnesota. He had been in Bolivia for a long while, painting and living off the grid. I purchased one of his rolled canvas paintings for 120 Bolivianos, or about $17. It was a steal considering it was a well done piece of artwork on a 42x36 inch canvas. He was selling his paintings for very cheap in order to quickly raise funds to get to Cusco, Peru and I was happy to contribute."


Anybody traveling to Bolivia needs to consider a trip to Copacabana, especially before or after a trip to La Paz, which is by far the craziest city I've ever been to. It is a great chance to relax, unwind and forget about the world. I also highly recommend the Hostal Las Olas which is one of the most relaxing and unique places I've ever stayed. Situated in the hills are 6 private buildings/huts/domes/cabins built amongst beautiful gardens and winding paths. Whatever they technically are and whatever you want to call them doesn't matter because either way they are very, very cool. We had the pleasure of staying in two different rooms over the 3 days. Each room is very different and has features such as: in-room gardens, hammocks, wood-burning stoves, working kitchens and massive showers, all built with locally sourced natural materials.

Our first room

Wood burning stove, hammocks, garden and loft bed

Exterior of our second room and private patio area

Our second room

Bathroom

View of the bay

Copacabana

Random Photo(s)

Atacama Desert, Chile

Antofagasta, Chile

Small town outside of Calama, Chile

Mercado Central in Cusco

Much of South America seems to be a land of backwards living and logic. It is a place where milk is kept in the cupboard and doesn't expire for two months. Eggs are kept unrefrigerated next to the cash register and can be purchased individually. Toilet paper is thrown not in the toilet, but in a small garbage next to the toilet. Because apparently they can handle massive turds, but not single-ply toilet tissue. Lawnmowers are minimally used because an old woman with 10-20 sheep comes around and keeps the grass at a perfectly manageable length. Typically, the cheaper the food, the more you get. So anybody who says the US has obnoxiously big portions has never been anywhere in South America. Depending on the city and country, $3 can get you a one pound steak, half a pound of rice, potatoes, salad and vegetables (quality not guaranteed). In the mercados (markets) large chunks of meat, fish and everything else you can imagine, sit out all day being attacked by flies and nibbled on by sneaky stray dogs. Safety and health standards in many aspects of life are largely ignored (dependent upon the area of course). It doesn't matter how many people should fit on a bus, they will fit as many as physically possible. The bus may sag, creak and groan and max out at 50 km/hr and it may even break down. Yet, at $2 for a 5 hour bus ride you really can't complain. One might assume there would be a bathroom on a 24 hour bus ride along dirt roads. But no, not in Bolivia. You'll be lucky if it stops once or twice so you can go on the side of the street. This is South America, and it is awesome, even if sometimes inconvenient.

Mercados are the lifeblood of practically every city and town in most South American countries. They are cheap and offer a wide variety of fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, grains and everything else you can imagine. Sure, the US has markets, but they aren't quite the same and they don't seem to be nearly as popular. The mercado in Cusco was one of the bigger and more interesting ones I have come across. It's broken down into sections for meat, fish, pork, vegetables etc. There are piles of every piece of every regional animal you could imagine from the intestines and testicles to entire heads. The smells may nauseate and the sights may be even worse. Yet, if seeing how locals purchase their food interests you this is a not to be missed experience.

Warning! If butchered animals and their insides aren't something you want to see I suggest not viewing the below images.

Mercado in Cusco

Vendors

Local

Vendor selling fish eggs and garlic

Butcher

Fish Vendor - fish don't need to be on ice in Peru

Local vendor

Fruit

More fruits

Sopas

Most likely what you think they are

Not as happy as the cartoon pig in the background

All sorts of organs

Good for stew?

Rodents

Random Photos

Some random photos from Juan Lopez, Chile:

Camila and Rafiki, the coolest stray dog I ever met

Juan Lopez

Juan Lopez stray dogs

Staying out of the city. Antofagasta in the background

Juan Lopez basketball court