Thursday, March 17, 2011

Return from South America

A few days ago I returned to New York City after an exciting, productive and exhausting two month journey through Peru, Bolivia and Chile. As usual, after returning from an extended trip, I seem to be stumbling through life filled with a variety of confusing and conflicting feelings. I am happy to be back to see friends and family, to do the things I love in New York (mostly involving eating) and to upload and begin editing thousands of photos. I am slow to get back to the grind of daily life, but equally anxious to find work, pay bills and begin saving for my next trip, whatever that may be. And of course, my greatest desire is to be back there, exploring a land that is unfamiliar, inspiring and overwhelmingly beautiful.

Processing two months of photos, notes and memories is no easy task when practically every day was filled with something of significant interest. I'll begin with a few unedited entries from my notebook.


"Peru has been a great time so far, despite the fact I was quite sick for the first eight days. Last years trip to Chile and Argentina yielded minimal stomach issues from drinking the water and eating whatever the hell I wanted. So I assumed Peru couldn't be much different. Unfortunately, years of grossly extended five second rules and minimal hand washing couldn't prepare me for Peru's substandard sanitation conditions. In hindsight, my first meal in Peru probably shouldn't have been a plate of ceviche, 4 pisco sours and a glass of water. But was it the best ceviche of my life? Yes. Was it worth eight days of hugging a toilet? Probably.

Across the country the standard of living is significantly lower than anywhere else I have been, so far. Bolivia will not doubt surpass Peru. The overall lack of control and law is refreshing. A majority of driving laws are generally ignored and looking into poorer neighborhoods it's hard to imagine things like building permits or safety inspections exist. Being from a well-to-do American suburb where you can't fart without getting glared at, I always appreciate disorganization and a lack of law enforcement.

As a whole, Peruvians appear to be hardworking, but it is never really clear what they are doing. Walking through the streets you'll pass a man moving dirt from one pile to another. A woman sorting potatoes into seemingly uneven piles. A man building a wobbly brick wall in the middle of a field. And women with huge blankets on their backs filled with food, salable goods and a baby or two trekking for miles, uphill, in the middle of nowhere, at a slow and steady pace.

To say the least, I find life in Peru quite fascinating. Markets, corner stores and bus rides are more interesting than they have ever been in the US. It is a country with incredible food (with the ability to ruin weak American stomachs) rich culture and breathtaking scenery. It is a place where everything is cheap, and you can always get it cheaper. If you know how to ask. Religious celebrations are an excuse for the police to turn their backs and allow everyone to get wasted in the streets and dance, eat and fight all night long. In Lima, the traffic may be beyond obnoxious, the pollution terrible and the city less than exciting. Yet, they have some of the most incredible sunsets I've seen in years and some excellent restaurants."


Sunset - Barranco, Lima

Sunset - Miraflores, Lima

Sunset - Miraflores

Best raw fish I've ever eaten - Edo Sushi, Lima

Peruvian countryside


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